Khaki Dawn Jeans

Last month I sewed up my first pair of jean style pants! The pattern is Dawn Jeans by Megan Nielsen. I made the straight leg version. Following the size chart, I cut a size 4 in the waist and blended to a size 6 in the hips with no other pattern alterations. I found the pattern easy to follow, although I wanted to find an easier way to sew the fly, so I followed the method shown in this Youtube video by Taylor4u. My machine (a Janome 8077) handled this project well until I reached the waistband. Then the bulky seams led to some challenges. The machine pushed through though, and it managed sewing with the thick topstitching thread very well. I’m very happy with the construction quality overall.

I used an old shank button that I bought from an antique shop years ago. For the fabric, I used a 65/35% poly/cotton (7.75 oz) twill and a plain cotton muslin for the pocketing.

These pants fit wonderfully when I’m on my feet! And I think they look really nice. However, this pattern was designed for 100% cotton with the understanding that cotton will stretch, and as it turns out, this polyester blend doesn’t stretch as much as pure cotton! (I knew this before but didn’t give it much thought before sewing these.) Consequently, these pants don’t have a lot of give, making them slightly tight in the thighs when I sit down. The thigh is comfortable when standing (approx. 1 1/4″ of positive ease), but my thigh girth increases by approx. 1 1/4″ when I sit (the amount varies based on where the measurement is taken). This fits okay but snug, so I would like a little more room next time. It’s not hard to alter, so I may do that at some point. This was an interesting lesson on the impact of posture on body measurements and the importance of fiber content!

Despite the thigh, I am still very happy with how these turned out! They are super comfy when walking around, and not bad when sitting. I definitely have plans to make more!

Update 10/2019: I had an epiphany about the fit! When I sit, the fabric of the leg moves upward toward my hips to allow more vertical distance along the bum. The thigh becomes too tight because the pant leg is too small to accommodate the thigh girth as the pant leg moves upward.

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